Cheese It, The Tops

Goopy, soul-satisfying cheese dips are loved around the world. In the mountains of the upper Rhone Valley and in northern Italy, cheese is heated over charcoal fires and scraped up with potatoes, the whole thing called raclette. And skiers throughout the world dunk spears of crusty bread into caldrons of cheese fondue for warmth and sustenance. In hotter climes, the choice is a spicy con queso scooped up with tortillas or crispy corn chips.

For anyone who needs a cheese fix from time to time, the microwave is by far the quickest and cleanest way to do it. A general rule to keep in mind is that cheese should be cooked on MEDIUM (50% power) unless it is a hard cheese such as grated Parmesan or Romano. This prevents the rubbery-cheese syndrome; medium power melts cheese more slowly and evenly and doesn’t quickly tighten the protein structure the way HIGH (100% power) can.

When reheating any of the recipes to keep them pliable for dipping, just microwave on MEDIUM (50% power) for one to three minutes and stir once or twice.

CHILE CON QUESO

1 tablespoon oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 1 cup canned (undrained), chopped

4 mild Anaheim chiles, peeled and cut in thin strips, or 1 (4-ounce) can chopped chiles

1 or more jalapeno chiles, roasted, peeled and chopped

3/4 pound Jack, Muenster or mild Cheddar cheese, cut in 1/2-inch cubes

Corn chips

Combine oil and onion in 1-quart microwave-proof casserole. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 2 to 3 minutes or until tender. Stir in tomatoes, chiles. Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH 3 to 5 minutes to cook down and blend flavors, stirring once.

Stir in cheese. Microwave, uncovered, on MEDIUM (50% power) 5 to 8 minutes or until cheese is melted, stirring twice. Serve with corn chips for dipping. Makes about 2 cups.

CHEESE RACLETTE

4 boiling potatoes

1/4 cup water

8 ounces Raclette, Gruyere or Jack cheese, cut in 1/4-inch-thick slices

8 small dill pickles

1 loaf crusty bread, cut in chunks

Combine potatoes and water in 2-quart microwave-proof casserole. Cover with lid or plastic wrap, turned back slightly. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 7 to 10 minutes, stirring once. Let stand, covered, 3 minutes.

Divide cheese slices among 4 (4- to 6-ounce) custard cups (for easier dipping and scraping) or microwave-proof plates. Microwave, uncovered, on MEDIUM (50% power) 4 to 8 minutes, or until color becomes light and cheese is tender but not runny (rearrange dishes after 3 minutes).

Slice potatoes and dip, along with pickle slices and chunks of bread, into melted cheese. Makes 4 servings.