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Popeye Never Had It So Good

SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of "American Favorites" (Chapters Publishing, 1996)

Lately, I have been working to create less caloric yet satisfying and interesting dishes, like this main course salad prepared with fresh spinach, thinly sliced cucumbers and Granny Smith apples, chopped green onions and thin pieces of roasted chicken breast, all tossed in a dressing made with rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and a small amount of sesame oil. The salad is mounded on plates and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds.

This special winter salad fits easily into the schedule of busy cooks because it can be assembled in a few minutes. The spinach leaves can be purchased already cleaned at most markets and, to save more time, you can buy a whole roasted chicken at the market and slice the breast into thin strips, then use the rest for another meal.

Although I offered this salad as a family meal, I would not hesitate to include it as part of a casual menu for entertaining. It could be served with warm crusty French bread and accompanied by hot soup. Butternut squash, carrot or potato potages would complement the salad admirably. A good store-bought sorbet would make a fine dessert.

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SPINACH, CHICKEN AND APPLE SALAD IN SESAME DRESSING

DRESSING

4 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce

4 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons dark toasted sesame oil

SALAD

2 to 3 teaspoons sesame seeds

1 small cucumber

1 Granny Smith apple

1 roasted chicken breast, skin removed

1 pound spinach

1/4 cup chopped green onions (including 2 inches green stems)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

DRESSING

Whisk together soy sauce, vinegar and sesame oil in small nonreactive mixing bowl. Mixture will be thin. (Note: Dressing can be made 1 day ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)

SALAD

Toast sesame seeds in heavy skillet over medium-high heat, shaking pan back and forth until seeds are light golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

Peel cucumber and halve lengthwise, remove seeds and cut into 1/8-inch slices. Core apple and cut into 1/8-inch slices. Cut chicken breast into 1/4-inch strips. Remove stems from spinach, clean, dry and tear leaves into bite-sized pieces.

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Place cucumber and apple slices in large mixing bowl, toss with 1/3 of Dressing and marinate 15 minutes.

Add green onions and chicken and another 1/3 of Dressing and toss well.

Add spinach leaves and toss again, adding enough Dressing to coat leaves lightly. You may have some Dressing left over. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, mound salad on 4 dinner plates and sprinkle each with sesame seeds.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

267 calories; 760 mg sodium; 77 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 33 grams protein; 1.62 grams fiber.

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